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If I could go back in time for one day, my first stop would be the hair salon. I've always loved the gorgeous hairstyles of stars like Liz Taylor, Ertha Kitt, and Brigette Bardot. Rollers, whether they're heated or velcro, have been used by women in-salon and at-home since their invention in the 1920s and recently made a comeback thanks to social media apps like Tiktok.
"Hair rollers can give an added volume boost to a normal blowout," says celebrity hairstylist and brand founder Andrew Fitzsimons. "Both hot and velcro rollers work on every hair type, though I love hot rollers because you can achieve multiple looks beyond a standard blowout."
Fitzsimons has used rollers on his clients, which include the Kardashians, Jennifer Lopez, and Megan Fox.
My second stop? I'm off with my new hairdo to steal Bob Dylan's heart, naturally.
Ahead, a step-by-step process on how to use hair rollers.
“Always start by detangling,” Fitzsimons says. Next, you need to prep the hair with a product like a heat protectant. “Then I spritz in the Body Volume Blowdry Hold Spray to help achieve a big, ‘90s-inspired blowout,” says Fitzsimons. “It creates the perfect amount of lift without ever making your hair feel stiff or crunchy." Sadly, this product is currently sold out (I've used it before, it's that good), but I like the classic L'oréal Paris Elnett, too. "If you’re pressed for time, rough blow dry the hair before putting rollers in, and if you’re using hot rollers, dry completely before adding them in.”
Choose Your Hair Rollers: Velvet Hot Rollers
When you think of hot rollers, this set is a luxurious version of what probably comes to mind. "A smooth velvet roller grips the hair more softly and prevents any tangling," says Fitzsimons. This set from T3 is fantastic for longer hair types or anybody who wants the Old Hollywood look.
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Choose Your Hair Rollers: Textured Hot Rollers
When I entered the world of short hair, I was at a loss for what rollers to use—but this exact set of textured rollers are perfect for those with shorter or shaggier styles. "Textured hot rollers give the hair more of a natural, tousled look," says Fitzsimons. "These curlers can also be beneficial for gripping curlier hair types."Bonus: This set of hot rollers is also super compact, so they're easy to travel with.
Choose Your Hair Rollers: Velcro Rollers
If you're looking for a heat-free styling option, try velcro rollers."They are easy to use and work on damp or dry hair. Velcro rollers maintain your hair's natural shape and curl pattern but create an extra volume boost." You can also use these in addition to round brushing or curling your hair if you need an extra boost: "After blowing out a section of hair, immediately wrap your hair around the barrel of the velcro curler while your hair is still hot for a more sleek finish" Fitzsimons says.
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Now it’s time to set your curls. Much like when you curl your hair with an iron, you need to decide which direction you want the hair to move (I’ve made the wrong decision before and came out looking like a Revolutionary War pageboy). “Your look can completely change depending on the direction,” shares Fitzsimons. “I like to roll backwards on the top of the head for added volume for front pieces. If you want more effortless-looking curls that aren’t as uniform, I recommend rolling every other piece of your hair in opposite directions.” If you have hair that doesn’t hold a curl, try adding Motions Foam Styling Lotion. The extra step helps my hair stay curled for days.
Once your curls have had a chance to fully "set"—in hot roller speak, that means cool down, for velcro rollers that can be cool or dry—it's time to remove the curlers and save all your hard work. That's where a finishing product like hairspray comes in. "To get your curls to last all day, spritz on your favorite hard-hold hairspray and brush through your hair with a boar bristle brush," Fitzsimons says.
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I love this gold paddle brush from Oribe because it looks gorgeous on my countertop when I'm finished.
My head always has at least one rebellious curl that won't stay in place. That's where a dash more hairspray and setting clips come in. The plastic fan on these mint-green clips from Harry Josh distributes pressure evenly across hair strands to assist with shaping but not crimping.
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Curly and coily girls already know that wrapping hair in silk at night is the way to save your style (plus, it keeps hair from getting tangled or damaged if toss and turn in your sleep)—but if you spent the time to set and hot roll your hair, might as well preserve it for the next day or two.
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Meet the Expert
Andrew Fitzsimons is a celebrity hairstylist and founded his own haircare line in 2022.
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Why Trust ELLE Beauty
Beauty editor Margaux Anbouba is obsessed with predicting the trends and bringing them straight to you—as she’s tried them out on her face and confirmed aren’t terrible, of course.
Margaux Anbouba
Beauty Editor
As ELLE’s beauty editor, Margaux wants to try it all and do it all…and she does. She's not afraid to chop, slather, dye, swipe, inject, and more—and if it's worth your time and money, she’ll rave about it here.